2020 Coche Dury
Meursault

93 Points William Kelley RobertParker.com januar 2023

“The 2020 Meursault Village has turned out beautifully in bottle, unwinding in the glass with scents of crisp Anjou pear, lemon zest, freshly baked bread, blanched almonds, pastry cream and apple blossom. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, its textural attack segues into a fleshy, precise mid-palate that’s animated by racy acids, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. It’s another terrific rendition of this benchmark cuvée.

This is another terrific vintage for Raphaël Coche, who exuded an easy confidence when I saw him in the aftermath of the 2020 vintage, which makes complete sense when one has the wines in the glass. Coche compares the style of 2020 with 1990, a comparison he isn’t the only producer to draw, and in the wines’ combination of flesh, precision, energy and immediate charm, it makes a lot of sense. In previous vintage reports, I’ve devoted much ink to the subtle stylistic evolution that has taken place at this address in the 21st century, so I won’t reprise all that now. Suffice it to say that this is a superb set of wines from one of Burgundy’s most perfectionist, passionate producers